Having grown up near the beach all my life I was always drawn to the waves. My sister and I had a Surfrider inflatable mat, you know the one with the big rope around it, they used as kids. Even in the icy water of Northern California, on any weekend we would spend hours swimming and playing in the waves. In 1979 my Dad moved to Hawaii and invited me to join him for the summer. My Dad’s friend, Preacher, lived across the street from the school and he had this antique Koa wood surfboard. He told me “If you can get that thing to the beach kid you can use it all you want”. So I did, and it wasn’t easy because that surfboard must have weighed 60lbs. Returning to California I found that my Mom had moved inland. I got into motorcycle riding, skateboarding, snowboarding and drugs. Then there was a problem, I didn’t want to go to school as much as I wanted to go boarding. I started making some bad decisions and the next thing I knew I was on my own in the streets of San Francisco. My Dad bought a house in Cabo San Lucas in the mid 80’s and on a trip I got to go surfing for the first time in many years. I went on another trip to Puerto Escondito and my life changed forever. Never had I seen waves like that before. After some traveling I found my mom had moved from the mountains to the beach, to Punta Mita, Mexico, and needed help building a house. I spent the next two years working and surfing in the area. As it grew, it changed and so did I. My Uncle lived in Texas which was a lot closer than California, so in 1999 I found himself in Austin. My uncle was a surfer and made his own boards. We went surfing together whenever possible but life was getting to me and I started to get into a dark place spiritually. I went back to the beach in Mexico but got involved in making bad decisions again and spent a few years losing my way.
Returning to California in 2005 I made a decision to get sober and spent the first five years of sobriety living away from the ocean. When I went home to the area I had grown up I was reacquainted with a girl from my past. Together we decided to go to Baja and try living there. Now four years later we are living and working on our own businesses. I returned to surfing as much as possible. I started making surfboards and doing repairs. I love being part of getting people out in the water as much as possible. Living, playing, and working with equal passion, I enjoy life and all the blessings it has to offer one board at a time, one day at a time.